Joinery Notebook

Just because I have not posted in a while does not mean that work has not been ongoing. Here is the state of the frame parts today (love that Blogger rotation feature):   All the pieces were dimensioned by hand from rough-sawn 3" or 2" African Mahogany. None of the boards were straight, the grain is interwoven and planing results varied greatly. To put it bluntly, I would not use this wood for any purpose again. But I will make do here. The best planing results came from a freshly sharpened plane with a chip-breaker sitting as close to the cutting edge as you dare. I tried a higher angle kanna but it did not have a chip-breaker so results were worse. I do not have a high-angle kanna with a chip-breaker but that would probably be best for this type of wood. The pictures in this post show members prior to final planing. That will remove all layout lines.   The joints shown are mostly double tenons with shoulders on 4 sides. These are through-tenons except for...

Two shoji panels, back to back. Dim: 125cm x 100cm     This phase of the tsuitate project consists of building two fixed shoji panels that will drop into the mid-section of the tsuitate. Since the 2 panels will be back-to-back they are mirror images of each other and only one will have shoji paper attached. This mirror issue becomes critical if kumiko positions are anything but perfectly symmetrical. Mine were not symmetrical, but they will be next time. Alignment is good but it took extra care to ensure it - due to the asymmetry. Work from the centerline... The two shoji frames back to back. Allowance has to be made to permit removal of the panels to replace the paper. Together the panels will drop into a 2-bu deep groove on the bottom and a deeper groove on the top that will allow you to first lift the panels up into the deep groove and then set them down into the shallower bottom groove - so they are held in place by the top and bottom grooves.  Same ha...

Our hens were invading the garden so we fenced it off but were left with no convenient gate. In the shed I had some old growth, oil-soaked 8/4+ redwood and some newer 1" x 6" redwood, at least enough for a gate of about 34" wide by 36" high. Ripped the "stiles" from the heavier stock and planed them on all sides. A little bit of quaint shaping and piercing made it slightly less dull.

Tsuitate are free-standing screens designed to provide privacy for inhabitants of a house or shop that has doors open to a not-so-private area. Similar situation exists in my house so I figured a tsuitate would work nicely. Overall dimensions were roughly taken (approx 60" wide and 66" high, but final dimensions are not yet known).  Conventional tsuitate vary widely in size and form. Some include shoji panels, but many do not. There are also multiple joined panel screens called byobu ( 屏風) used to block wind or draughts. Anyway, here is the scale drawing I will use. I sketched the shoji section a couple ways to see what they looked like. Final shoji will use spacing pattern on the left side and will be a single fixed screen with kumiko on both sides. Apologies for the distorted picture: For materials, the top grille and center shoji are to be Port Orford Cedar (POC), the decking-grade variety. The framing needs to be solid so I am using approx. 3 inch square African...

This project started as a class assignment for Jay van Arsdale's joinery class in Oakland, CA but actually serves a purpose at my house. We have a south facing living room that gets too much sun at different times of the year. The windows in the room have fixed clerestory windows above. This small shoji screen fits the smaller clerestory frame and is held in place by two 1/4" dowels.

Purpose: design and mock up a model of a Japanese style gate to work out scale, design, and construction issues before spending $2000 on materials. No specific design was copied but overall dimensions and scale reflect common examples seen. Rough full scale dimensions would be 9 feet tall, roof is 8 ' long x 6' across, gate opening is 5' wide. I started by making a 1/10 scale drawing and worked out basic dimensions there. Making the model served the purpose as I ended up with a list of things to do and avoid on a full size version.

Design considerations: This design was loosely based on Japanese sewing boxes (haribako) and small cabinets popular in the first half of the 20th century. Of course, those craftsmen did not use dovetails for any joinery in their boxes - at least not visible dovetails. Next time I would follow their example. The dovetails are visually too busy once the finish darkened up the end grain. Alaskan yellow cedar (AYC) is beautiful to work with but a bit pricey so I wanted to minimize waste. This dictated the major dimensions.    Materials: AYC, poplar drawer sides and internal framing, Port Orford cedar drawer bottoms, maple drawer pulls, 1/4" birch plywood back. Titebond II glue.  Methods: The AYC came as rough sawn 2"x8" about 6' long. This was resawn with a frame saw to approx. 1/2" thick pieces, then cut to 18" lengths, then planed flat one face. A marking gauge (kebiki) was used to mark the edges for thickness and then the second face was planed flat...